On November 18, 1841, Peter Barron, a wealthy sugar and wine merchant from Shahjahanpur, ‘discovered’ Nynee-thal. Under the pen name ‘Pilgrim’, he wrote about his discovery in ‘Notes of Wanderings in the Himalaya’ in the Agra Gazetteer.
“It is, by far, the best site I have witnessed in the course of a 1,500 miles (2,400 km) trek in the Himalayas.” Barron constructed Pilgrim Lodge, the first European house, and before long, the township became a health resort for British soldiers, officials, and their families. Churches were built, a hill station began to flourish, and Nainital became the summer residence of the governor and the summer capital of the United Provinces. Looking at the hordes of holidayers and tenements crowding the hills proved Traill’s worst fears had come true…
Over time, Indian royalty followed suit, setting up their own summer retreats. The Palace Belvedere belonged to the erstwhile Rajas of Awagarh, Balrampur House to the Maharajas of Balrampur, while Leisure Hotels’ Naini Retreat was the summer residence of the Maharaja of Pilibhit. They also run Earl’s Court, established in 1890 by Captain P Richardson. Ashdale, one of the earliest cottages in Nainital built by Captain George Rowels in 1860, was bought by Raja Bahadur of Sahaspur Bilari Estate. WelcomHeritage recently renovated it into a heritage hotel.
The town was perched in a hollow at 1938 metres and radiated around Naini Lake, which supposedly mirrors the emerald green eyes of Goddess Sati. According to puranic folklore, after Sati’s death, Lord Shiva carried her body and walked with heavy sorrowful steps, causing the earth to tremble. To save the planet from destruction, Lord Vishnu unleashed his sudarshan chakra and dismembered Sati’s body. Wherever her body part fell, a shakti pitha was born. It is believed her left eye (nain in Hindi) fell at this spot and created a beautiful crater lake — Nainital. They say it’s shaped like an eye.
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